Archive for the ‘News’ Category

Off to DC

14 June, 2008 - Ap Tsheri is all jittery these days.

The 60-year old former people’s elected representative from Laya has never been near an airplane. But next week he will be boarding for the longest journey of his life, flying to Washington D.C.

Tsheri is in the third batch of Bhutanese artisans and presenters leaving for the United States to participate in the Smithsonian Folk-life Festival, which will showcase Bhutanese folk life at the US capital from June 25 to July 6.

Like the organizers and other artisans, Tsheri is preparing for the visit. “I’m taking showers daily to smell better,” says Tsheri with a big smile. He is excited and worried as well. “When I left my village for Thimphu, my neighbours said that I’ll never return as I was bound for a journey to the end of the world.”

Tsheri plans to wear just ghos during the entire trip and has already bought two thin ghos. “If I wear gho always, it’ll be easy for people to spot me. So no worry of getting lost in America.”

Ap Tsheri and a Layap woman will showcase Layap culture and traditions in Washington D.C. They will pitch a Layap tent made from yak hair and wear Layap costumes at the festival.

In what may be the largest Bhutanese delegation in a foreign place at the same time, 131 Bhutanese will be in Washington D.C. for about two weeks at the festival. A majority of the delegation consists of musicians, dancers, artisans, cooks, carpenters, farmers, and representatives from the monk body.

Earlier this week, the department of culture organised an orientation for the illiterate participants. “We taught them table manners, briefed them not to urinate near trees, and to stay in groups,” said one of the coordinators, Damcho Tenzin. Some of the participants come from as far as Taksar in Mongar and Bomdeling in Trashiyangtse.

The director of the department of culture, Dorji Tshering, who is the focal person for the curatorial committee, said that they are working round the clock because of the time difference for the biggest festival that will portray Bhutan in all its diversity.

The department of culture has shipped six containers to the US containing exhibits ranging from soksums (bamboo darts) to traditional tents, statues, choesums, thri, and kilkhors. Pre-fabricated material to build chortens and temples have already reached DC and are being assembled. “We’re prepared and hoping that everything will go as planned,” says Dorji Tshering.

Dorji Tshering said that participants will multitask in 11 broad festival categories.

According to the director, artisans were selected after a nationwide Zorig competition held last year. “The first and second candidates from the dzongkhag competitions were selected for the festival,” he said, adding that many dzongkhags did not participate.

Yesterday, a smaller group left for the US and 11 mask dancers and 10 officials will leave tomorrow. The group will be in New York for the Asia Society event, a sub-programme of the festival. The last group of the delegation will leave on June 28.

Titled “Land of the Thunder Dragon”, the 10-day festival will be spread over an area of three football fields in Washington D.C. Artisans will demonstrate Bhutan’s 13 traditional arts (zorig chusum), weavers will showcase Bhutan’s complex weaving traditions, sculptors, painters and carvers will demonstrate the arts, and monastic dancers will perform masked dances, which have never before been performed in the United States. More than a million people are expected at the festival.

The Smithsonian festival is an annual festival organized by the Smithsonian Institution, where every year programs featuring a nation, region, state or theme is made the centerpiece of the festival. The Festival will also feature the music, food and wine of Texas and celebrate the 50th anniversary of NASA.

Source: Kuensel

Trongsawatchtower’s makeover into museum

19 June, 2008 - For centuries it served as a watchtower protecting Trongsa dzong, the cradle of Bhutanese monarchy. Come September and its transformation into a place of worship and museum of the rich historic and religious heritage will be completed. Standing on a steep hill above the Trongsa–Bumthang highway, the ‘tower of Trongsa’ consists of three massive circular towers in a triangular arrangement. The central tower is five-storeys high and is flanked by a southern and northern wing, which are four storeys each. It also has two stand alone towers. The north wing, the south wing and one of the two stand alone towers were renovated, but the central tower and one stand alone tower had to be rebuilt. Almost 90 percent of the work has been completed, according to the project director, Trongsa dzongda Lungten Dorji.The main tower (utse) and the northern wing will be used as the museum exclusively on the history of monarchy and of Trongsa dzong. “Historical artifacts related to the monarchs and the royal family will be showcased in the museum,” the dzongda said. The southern wing has been converted into residential quarters for the monks, hermits and caretakers, and the two temples of the legendary hero, Gesar of Ling, and lhakhang of bodhisattva Manjushri have been renovated to be used as integrated parts of the museum. Pema Kunzang, 61, a monk who lived as a lhakhang caretaker in the Ta dzong since 1997, told Kuensel that the old Ta dzong was on the verge of collapse. He has already applied for space in the new hermit’s quarters to practice meditation. A special feature of, the towers would be the media room where a video presentation of approximately 10 minutes will be projected on a screen measuring 2.5 m by 2 m on the religious practice at the monastery and the history of Trongsa Dzong, according the project manager, Tshering Namgyal. Work on the Ta dzong started on July 1, 2005, and was scheduled to be completed this month but rescheduled to September because of unforeseen delays in the reconstruction work on the main tower. “Initially the utse was just planned for renovation but, when we brought down some parts for renovation, whole sections collapsed, so we had to do complete reconstruction,” said project engineer, Namgay Dorji. About 75 local carpenters, masons and labourers worked on the reconstruction on the Ta dzong using about 700 truckloads of mud, brought from Taktse and Tashidingkha area 15 kms away from Trongsa town, 2,240 tractor loads of stones from Zongkhaloom, about 10 kms away, and 65,400 cft of timber from Chumey and Chokor gewogs of Bumthang. Namgay Dorji told Kuensel that it was difficult to meet the consultant’s plans “because we’re carrying out work in the old existing monument”. “If it’s a new construction, it would be easier to follow the drawings and instructions, but it’s difficult while renovating,” he said. Safety for labourers was also a challenge as there were no safety precautions for them. Some Trongsa residents said that, though the Ta dzong needed to be restored, the drupchu (holy water), housed in the Ta dzong, to cure za (paralysis) had dried. “The drupchu flows after sunset but since iron poles and cement were used there, it dried up,” said an old resident of Trongsa, who chose anonymity. Kuensel found that the site of the drupchu, which falls on the ground floor of the south wing, is being used as a toilet and washing area. The restoration was carried out with a funding of Nu 74 million from the Austrian development agency, and Nu 18 million from the royal government. Four foreign experts, including the structural engineer, the museum curator, an architect and the project coordinator, are involved in the renovation. There are short-term experts supporting the project in art conservation and also producing media programmes. According to the Austrian project coordinator, Thomas Schrom, who is in Trongsa, the main challenge in Bhutan is the lack of qualified project supervisors and construction experts and a huge shortage of skilled labourers. The project did not have a single Bhutanese architect, which according to the coordinator, would have played an important role in the renovation. However, the remaining challenge, Mr Schrom said, is to install all the necessary equipment for the museum. Mr Schrom said tha though the project received almost all the objects to be installed in the museum, there are a few items they are yet to receive. The renovated Ta dzong will be inaugurated in September as part of the centenary celebration of the monarchy in Bhutan. Source: Kuensel

Book of Bhutanese birds

24 April, 2008 - Bhutan is an ornithologistís paradise with over 640 bird species of which 16 species have been identified as being globally threatened, according to Bird Life International, the eastern and the central part of the kingdom like Zhemgang are reputed to be among the best birding spots in Asia.

An impressive variety of these birds have been captured by photographer Yeshey Dorji who released a pictorial book called ìBhutan Birdsî in Thimphu on April 19. The book, published by a local company, You-2 Publishers and printed in India by a company called Pragati Offset, comprises 130 full-page colour photographs of birds found in Bhutan.“Photography always interested me,” said Yeshey Dorji. “I traveled to almost all the places in Bhutan and it took me long five years to compile these pictures. This book is a tribute to His Majesty the Fourth Druk Gyalpo.”

He said that taking pictures of the White Bellied Heron and its chicks in the nest was his best amongst his photographs. Its global population is estimated at anywhere from 50 to 250 and records indiacate that Bhutan alone has 24 of these rare birds.

The publishers told Kuensel that they published about 3,000 books at a cost of about Nu 5.00 million. It sells for Nu. 2,500 a copy.

Their Majesties Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck and Ashi Sangay Choden Wangchuck launched the book at a ceremony attended by dignitaries from the government and civil sector.

Source: Kuensel

Dragon Kingdom’s Date with Democracy

Bhutan’s Historic Transition from Absolute Monarchy to Absolute Majority

17 April, 2008 - From the bombshell His Majesty the Fourth Druk Gyalpo dropped on his unsuspecting subjects on 9 December 2006 to the electoral rout meted out by Druk Phuensum Tshogpa on 27 March 2008, Bhutan’s roller-coaster ride from monarchy to democracy has been a run of one irony after another.

The Abdication Paradox – The Emperor’s New Close

When in late 2006 Palden Drukpa’s fourth hereditary monarch informed an extraordinary meeting of cabinet ministers of his sovereign decision to step down from the golden throne and hand over the raven crown to his eldest son and heir-apparent, Crown Prince Jigme Khesar, a fly on the wall would have heard a pin drop. And when, via grapevine, the momentous news filtered down to the masses, there was general disbelief mingled with grief. Why would a ruler at the height of his power, prowess and popularity seek to relinquish the reins? was the question, born in Bhutan, which verily went around the world. But this was no ‘Lear’y brainstorm but vintage king’s end game. To paraphrase His Majesty’s own words, the transition to democracy was no overnight phenomenon but an ongoing process, anchored in the 1981 decentralisation to dzongkhag levels, extended in 1991 down to the gewogs. Also, a committee of eminent persons had been entrusted way back in 2001 with the task of drafting a Constitution –a development that should have hinted at his future intentions and stands testimony to his characteristic foresight- which now awaits ratification by the first democratically elected Parliament. It is far better, he explained, for a nation to take this historic step when it enjoys peace and progress than to do so under duress, like so many others have, in times of violent upheaval. He went on to outline his blueprint -Bhutan’s roadmap to democracy- and, overruling nationwide calls to recant, when he went around the country as was his wont to discuss the issues with his people, forged ahead to put in place the stepping stones towards realising his vision. With two constitutional bodies now established, the Anti-Corruption Commission (ACC) and the Election Commission (EC), His Majesty the King Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuck on the throne and the first elected government in place, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck’s grand design is well on track to denouement.

The Party Paradox – The Two Sides of the Sovereign  

Of the two parties, the People’s Democratic Party (PDP) and Druk Phuensum Tshogpa (DPT), that fielded candidates in the 2008 national assembly (NA) elections, the former, like the proverbial hare, was first off the blocks. Brainchild of Sangay Ngedup, former minister of health/education, later of agriculture and twice prime minister, PDP was branded the “royalty’s” party –a wholly mistaken notion in view of the clear-cut Constitutional proscription against royal participation in politics- while DPT subsequently got dubbed “royalist” by the foreign media. Both parties chose to be guided by the development philosophy of GNH, a Bhutan trademark value system patented by HM the fourth King. With the advantage of an early launch, PDP got first pick of the crop and put together a formidable team of candidates, including two ministers -Sangay Ngedup and Jigme Singye- and a constellation of civil service stars and other luminaries. Nonetheless, from the onset, the party was perceived by intelligentsia as having the unfair boon (or bane, as maybe) of familial moorings. And though civil servants were restricted by EC from active politics, this perception stuck in the urban psyche and may have impacted on the eventual outcome. Meanwhile, DPT made a stuttering tortoise-like start. A group of prominent citizens initiated a political association to present a credible challenge to what increasingly looked like a one-horse-race, with PDP in sole contention. The most immediate problem this makeshift dispensation faced was the lack of any stellar leadership to match PDP’s Sangye Ngedup. The other ministers, including home minister Jigmi Y Thinley, when approached by this wannabe faction, remained non-committal. To nobody’s surprise, several months later, in July 2007, five ministers -Jigmi Thinley, Yeshey Zimba, Khandu Wangchuk, Ugyen Tshering, Wangdi Norbu- resigned from government and took over the fledgling party. This influx of leaders into an hitherto headless clique ruffled some feathers and the party splintered into two: DPT and the erstwhile Bhutan’s People’s United Party (BPUP), which made an early, embarrassing exit when its registration application was rejected by EC for not meeting required criteria. The stage was thus set for a one-on-one face-off between the two parties still standing and the twin trio of initials, PDP and DPT, entered Bhutanese lexicon and consciousness.

The Campaign Paradox - Bad Hare Days                         

To enable a level playing field, EC exercised control over every aspect of the campaign, from eligibility (graduates need only apply) to expenditure (Nu 100 thousand per head). Originally, in the event of more than two competing parties, two rounds of voting were slated, the first to determine which two would contest the second and decisive round. But when perforce BPUP bowed out, a first round turned redundant. Nevertheless, with the preceding national council (NC) election in January 2008 of 20 members to the upper, impartial house of a bicameral parliament-to-be, a dress rehearsal of sorts took place. Not to belittle its import, this ballot allowed all concerned a dry run before the ‘real’ thing. Bhutanese were treated to a first-hand taste of TV debates, campaigns and electronic voting machines (EVM) for the election, which seemed almost an incidental run-up to the highly emotive party politics to follow. And though the televised debates proved to be a damp squib and voter turnout modest (less than 55 percent), the NC elections, which went off like clockwork, did provide valuable experience. Given that both DPT and PDP subscribed to GNH and its four pillars, the choice between the parties boiled down not to ideology but personality, particularly with respect to the presidents, Sangay Ngedup and Jigmi Thinley. This idiosyncracy was patent, albeit among a computer-literate minority, in a Kuensel online poll, which revealed, by a huge margin, that party and president eclipsed platform in determining voting trends. The PDP manifesto -party symbol: a rearing stallion- could be distilled into its two slogans of being a party that would “Walk the Talk” and provide “Service with Humility”. The first evoked the much hyped though admirable ‘Move for Health’ campaign its president had conducted during his health ministry heydays, and the second resurrected his proactive avatar as agriculture minister, when he promoted rural development, chiefly in the field of farm roads. DPT –party symbol: a trio of black-necked cranes in synchronous flight- in a nutshell, promised “Growth with Equity and Justice” and opted for rooting out corruption as its USP. The campaign had two phases: the first, in December 2007, a ‘familiarisation’ tour, wherein candidates were directed to introduce themselves and ‘educate’ voters on the dynamics of a democratic process; the second, in early 2008, ‘actual’ campaigning. From the word go, DPT had some catching up to do so as to offset PDP’s head start. During the first half of the campaign, DPT adopted a novel strategy -they went by the book!- and, in so doing, gained public confidence and reversed early PDP gains. At one rally after another, DPT’s president Jigmi Thinley, a consummate if reluctant politician, et al, drove home the norbu concept of the vote as bestowed on the people by the fourth king, and drummed in the message of their inviolability as voters. During this warm-up phase, interrupted by the month-long NC contest, and spilling over into 2008, the political climate simmered with bouts of mudslinging and allegations of electoral misconduct. The campaign came and went; the jury was out. Conventional wisdom predicted a divided house, with the bourgeoisie behind DPT and the peasantry for PDP. The latter took two body blows late in the day with one of their candidates suspended and another publicly reprimanded by EC for electoral malpractice. Yet who was going to win was still anybody’s guess.

The Upshot Paradox – Tortoise Shell-Shock

 As we all now know and none of us foresaw, DPT won by a landslide, sweeping 45 of the 47 seats. The ‘drop’ had grown indeed into an ‘ocean’, as Thakur S Powdyel, now minister of education, observed, in a wry dig at an eponymous campaign-period Kuensel headline that read: DPT drop in PDP ocean. The two PDP ex-ministers lost, as did all but two of the party’s bright sparks. After a brief speechless spell, PDP reacted with an appeal to EC (later referred to the High Court, and since dismissed for lack of any hard evidence) on the “very strange developments” that occurred over the weekend just before polling day. This was in reference to a suspicion that, during the urban exodus to vote at rural polling centres, undue influence had been brought to bear leading to a last minute, massive swing against all estimates. The fact that the final percentages of votes for DPT vis a vis PDP (67 to 33) replicated a pre-election Kuensel online poll on party preference lent circumstantial weight to such misgivings.

The Post-Script Paradox – The Inscrutable Orientation

Bhutan’s democratisation began in 2006 with a shock and –despite some stray bomb blasts in between, which deterred an 80 percent voter turnout not a whit– came up with a stunner in 2008. In the fallout of the country’s first parliamentary elections, questions are being asked about the skewed winner-take-all electoral system -PDP received 33 percent of the votes but only four percent of the seats- and the merits of an alternate method of proportional representation. However, any attempt to explain the lop-sided electoral result, given the novelty of the experience, will be at best, at this juncture, an exercise in conjecture. With the decimation of PDP as an opposition party in parliament, the National Council’s 25 members assume an unanticipated Constitutional role: that of an oppositional check-and-balance in the eventuality of a “tyrannical majority”. At the end of the day, it does seem that the people of Bhutan did not so much vote against change -represented by the gung ho PDP- as opt overwhelmingly for continuity as embodied by the establishmentarian DPT and its tried and tested team. Which brings us to our last –but not least, in international eyes, at least- word: the so-called lhotsampa dimension, which the foreign media is inclined to regard as the Achilles heel of “the last Shangri-la”. The ‘issue’, made conspicuous by its absence, became a non-issue. A potentially divisive democratic process produced a uniform electoral result that unified the newly constitutionalised kingdom like super glue.

Source: Kuensel

Druk Air resheduling hurts tour operators

12 April, 2008                                                                                  Litigation with a former staff, the loss of pilots and the resignation of the managing director does not seem to be the end of problems for Druk Air. The airline’s recent rescheduling of flights left 275 tourists stranded, hurting more than nine local tour operators.

The most affected tour companies were BTCL with 58 clients, International Tours and Treks with 51, Etho Metho with 37, Sakten Tours and Treks with 22, Aman Kora with 28, All Bhutan Connection with 19, Yangphel Tours and Treks with 18, Namgay Adventures with 16 and Gangri Tours and Treks with 15. There were also other operators with smaller number of clients.

The Managing Director of Gangri Tours and Treks, Kesang Namgyel, said that he had a group of 13 tourists coming in yesterday but because of the rescheduling of the flights they lost a day for which his company had to refund the money. “Druk Air has lots of changes on their timings, seat cancellations and rescheduling of flights which causes a lot of hassles for us,” he said.

The Operational Manager of Etho Metho Tours and Treks,Tenzin Namgay, said they had a group coming in yesterday, one on Sunday, one on April 24 and one on May 1.

The clients, he said, were not happy because they did not want to change their schedule, “This hampers the business and creates a lot of inconveniences like changing their visas and trying to contact them when they have already left their country,” he said.

He added because of cancellation of seats and rescheduling, outside agents did not feel secure with Druk Air. He suggested Druk Air should either stick with the same schedule or announce changes well in advance.Thinley Wangchuk Dorjee, the MD of BTCL, said rescheduling and rerouting did affect them to some extent but Druk Air had been helpful in bearing the one day stay cost for the tourists.

“Things like these have been going on quite frequently now, like the cancellation of seats, rerouting, and changes in flight. I hope things will be streamlined and stabilized in the future because in the long run this can affect the numbers of tourists coming into Bhutan,” he said.

Tenzin Drakpa, the MD of Rabsel Tours, said right now he did not have much tourists coming in but when the next season begins he hoped that Druk Air will have streamlined such procedures.Druk Air’s Head of CommercialDivision, Tandin Gyamtsho told Observer this was the second time this year when flights had to be rescheduled, once during the Paro Tshechu to accommodate the tourists and now because of the increasing number of tourists coming in.

He said tour operators were given tentative plans in advance so that they could inform their tourists. Also that the changes were mostly in timing and not in the date of operation.The tentative schedule was then sent to authorities in India, Bangkok and Bangladesh where slot committees took time to approve the schedules.

“Sometimes when we ask them for the schedules they cannot give it because the slots have already been taken by other airlines and the timing given to us is not suitable. Then again we have to request for an alternate timing so as this goes on, a lot of time is consumed,” said Tandin Gyamtsho.

He said this year there had been big changes because of the increase in number of flights in India, many slots in Delhi and Mumbai were taken and these airports have only one runway.“When we keep on giving changes down there, we keep on losing slots, so now we have a meeting with ABTO to tell them that wherever possible, we will have a spare flight so there is no pressure with the change in slots,” he said.

Sonam Dorji, the General Secretary of ABTO, said the last minute changing of flight timings was very unfortunate for the tour operators and unorganized and not well planned on the part of the Druk Air. “We have the traditional flight route; they are removing the travel route in the middle of the tourist season, at the last minute,” he said.

The rescheduling of incoming flights meant the loss of one night royalty per head for the government, hoteliers, guides and tour operators.Tandin Gyamtsho said this was a lesson they learnt and that Druk Air will be thouroughly studying it.

Source: Bhutan Observer

New PM takes office

His Majesty the king of Bhutan with new prime minister12 April, 2008 - On April 9, 2008, the fourth day of the third month of the male earth rat year, Jigmi Yoezer Thinley took his place on the highest seat of governance that a Bhutanese citizen can aspire for. Chosen by the will of the Bhutanese people, Bhutan’s first elected prime minister received the auspicious five-colour dhar from His Majesty the King. Lyonchhen Jigmi Thinley (Dasho) received the symbolic scarf and sword in the throne room of Tashichhodzong. After the ceremony, he offered prayers and nyendar and lit 1,000 butter lamps in the geonkhang lhakhang of Tashichhodzong.The prime minister was then escorted to the newly established office at Gyalyong Tshogkhang in a chipdrel procession and presented a guard of honour by the Royal Bhutan Police. The Dorji Lopon of the Zhung Dratshang presided over a special tendryil ceremony inside the prime minister’s office and offered the Tashi Zegye (offering of the eight auspicious objects). Government officials and people’s representatives of Thimphu offered the ku-sung-thugten mendrel to the prime minister. Thousands of well wishers, who offered khadar and tashi delek to the prime minister, said they were extremely moved by the historic occasion. “It demonstrates the trust and confidence of the people in the new democratically elected government established by our Kings,” said a Thimphu businessman. “It’s a privilege to be part of history,” said a civil servant. A local leader said that he had come to offer his prayers that the prime minister would fulfill His Majesty’s vision of serving the people through a democratically elected government. Meanwhile, the establishment of the government was completed yesterday with the announcement of portfolios of 10 cabinet ministers, who also received dakyens from His Majesty the King. The party won 45 of the 47 seats to the National Assembly in the March 24 general elections. Lyonchhen Jigmi Thinley (Dasho), who has been emphasizing responsibility rather than celebrations on the party’s victory, said that his government would adopt the Constitution of Bhutan and then discuss the 10th five-year plan. He said that DPT would continue as a party, with party activities. “We’ll build our base in the constituencies and the party members will be active in their constituencies,” he told Kuensel, adding that members of parliament would be required to visit their constituencies at least twice a year. Born in 1952 in Bumthang, the prime minister comes from Mendrelgang, Punakha and transferred his census to Pemagatshel. He began his academic career in Dr Graham’s Homes in Kalimpong and graduated from St Stephen’s College in India. He completed his master’s in public administration from Penn State university in the United States and a certificate course in manpower planning and management from Manchester university, United Kingdom. He joined the civil service in 1974 and served in various capacities for 34 years. When the national administration was decentralised into the zonal system on trial, he became the zonal administrator of the Eastern Zone, in 1990. In 1992, he became secretary in the home ministry and in 1994 was promoted as deputy minister in the same ministry. That same year, he was appointed as permanent representative of the Kingdom of Bhutan to the United Nations office and other international organizations in Geneva. He received the Red Scarf and the title Dasho in February 1987 and was awarded the Orange Scarf and rank of Deputy Minister in January, 1994. He served as minister for foreign affairs and home minister and two terms as prime minister in 1998 and 2003. He was conferred the Druk Thuksey and Coronation medals on June 2, 1999. Source: Kuensel

Master Politician

Prime Minister of Bhutan12 April, 2008 - On a late Sunday evening in early October 2007, as scattered, enormous clouds leaked a few unlikely raindrops over Bumdeling valley, Trashiyangtse, Jigmi Y Thinley stood holding a microphone in front of some 700 people inside a topless bamboo tent. He smiled and glanced around, shooting little arrows of recognition to faces he knew. All eyes were on him.

Though he is not especially funny, he likes to begin his stump speech with a joke. “You must be wondering what is an old man with a balding head like me doing keeping you waiting like this.” The audience roared with laughter. His own smile widened, creating a crease that seemed to exert pressure upwards, causing his eye to become smaller and smaller. The joke was the one he always gave.Having thus enlisted the audience as his partner, he plunged into his messages with the bright effervescence of a born communicator. He paced slowly, he revolved, he tilted his head, and he never for once took his eyes off his audience, which was hanging on to his every word.

After the meeting, he shook hands with people, asking names of persons who hadn’t expected to have their names asked, smiling at kids, draping his arms across shoulders of old men and women. He was almost glowing with the pleasure of being down in the room with his folks. He made you feel drawn to him. You could see how this scene, endlessly repeated all over the country, could have caused the rural Bhutanese to give him their hearts.

All that polished charm was in the service of his message that democracy in Bhutan must begin on a clean slate. He managed to move voters by making them feel and believe they were part of history. “It’s your freedom to shape your destiny, your children’s destiny and the destiny of your country. Together, we must build a firm foundation, because what we do now and how we play our parts will determine how democracy will function for a long time to come in Bhutan. It’s the first step that’s important.”

He is a compelling campaign orator. He energized the audience with his argument and enthusiasm, and the sort of spontaneous human touch that everyone at his meetings noticed and liked. He focussed on ends, not just on means. He addressed issues, not just interest groups. He appeared like an actor playing a politician, implausibly effortless to be doing it for real, an observer said.

Jigmi connected because he could talk the people’s dialect - fluidly. Depending on a region, he gave his stump speeches in five languages – Dzongkha, Sharchop, Lhotsham, Kheng, and Bumthap. This had a pleasantly surprising effect on voters. They sat upright and listened, with a sense of belonging. It lent additional attraction and the personal touch to Jigmi’s candidacy. Because others lacked his talent, it allowed his message to shine through.

This was demonstrated in the south. Leaning sideways on the trunk of an old tree, one sunny afternoon in Samtse, a p-capped Jigmi invited the Lhotshampas, who had gathered under the blazing sun to listen to him, under the shade. And acting less erudite than he was in Lhotsham, said in the language: “I haven’t spoken Lhotsham in a long time. So please excuse me if it comes out a bit rusty.” Midway through he had galvanized the crowd. Jigmi knew Lhotsham words Lhotshampas themselves were unaware of or that were lost in their memory. Before Jigmi’s appearance there, few had heard of him much less seen him.

What fetched people to these meetings was Jigmi’s personality and the promise he gave of being a winner and a leader. The image of a statesman - sober, responsible, forward-looking, concerned with matters of large and perhaps historic importance - was always more congenial than that of an haranguing politician, said an observer.

The essence of Jigmi’s political attraction was his vision and his ability to inspire people to get behind that vision. The key word in his speech was “You.” Other politicians talked about what they would do if elected. Jigmi talked about what one could do, if he or she joined hands together. He moved people beyond their cynicism. He believed that if one person stood up against corruption, then another would stand up and another and another and you would get a nation standing up.

“Don’t think that you can’t think; don’t convince yourself that you aren’t capable of taking the right decision. You have the wisdom, you have the capability, that’s why His Majesty has trusted you, trusted us, the people. We must exercise that. We have to be responsible.”

It was a summons to reasonableness, yet Jigmi Thinley made it sound thrilling. He delivered the same speech in all his stops, and he never failed to carry the audience and win what appeared to be its approval and appreciation. In the process, he attracted legions of fervent volunteers, who wanted to be Druk Phuensum Tshogpa’s (DPT) tshogpas.

Jigmi’s opponents mostly ignored him, perhaps assuming that his candidacy would sink under the weight of its own preposterousness. The result was an unpleasant surprise. To many Peoples’ Democratic Party (PDP), the most alarming feature of their defeat was the crumbling of their votes in places considered to be impregnable strongholds.

Few disagree that the DPT win was, in large part, because of the brilliance of Jigmi’s strategy. He campaigned on the basis of a single, strongly held idea: a great leader and great party theory of history, in which the great leader and party happened to be himself and DPT. Jigmi did this by capitalising on election malpractices, such as bribery and coercion, allegedly by PDP. And while PDP vehemently dismissed these allegations as lies, antipathy for PDP grew. The allegations, circulating in the rumour mills and media, not only magnified Bhutanese fears about the true nature of politics and politicians, it also demolished PDP’s image.

A BORN LEADER
The rise of Jigmi Y Thinley was not an accident or an anomaly, or even a mystery. “He was a leader from a young age,” said a close relative. He was born on September 9, 1952, in Bumthang. He excelled in studies, debates and sports. While at Dr Graham’s Homes in Kalimpong, he led the school’s athletic squad at a regional school contest. He took lead roles in school plays. He was awarded the “All Round Best Boy” in his final years. Later, at Penn State University in the US, he was elected to the Graduate Student Council.

Even as a young boy in Kalimpong, he was a conservative in temperament and style. His world was an orderly place, where people waited in line, took their turns, and generally behaved themselves. Because of this and his omnipresence in school activities, he was a popular student. One of the explanations for his popularity was also “integrity,” and in the school compound you would hear the word a lot from students discussing him.

Many at the civil service at some point establish a reputation within the institution by which their colleagues judge them and by which their effectiveness is measured. Some become known as mediocrities, some as well meaning but ineffective, some as phonies, some as mavericks, a few are dismissed as jokes, and a handful taken seriously. When Jigmi started his career in the civil service in 1976 as the director of the then department of manpower, he established a reputation as a no-nonsense man and rapidly emerged as one of the most hardworking and efficient government civil servants.

Jigmi initiated and established, among many others, the Royal Civil Service Organization, with the idea of functioning based on merit. Before that, ministers and secretaries had the power to appoint, transfer, or promote people in what was basically a patronage system. He held many key government positions in a career spanning over three decades. But it was his 10 years in the foreign ministry that seasoned him as a diplomat and communicator. “Most of the time communication skills was all that mattered,” Jigmi told Kuensel.

People who worked with him express their high regard for him. They say he was respected without being universally loved. He was regarded as hard case and it was partly for his hardness that he was admired. Some, though, tagged him nepotistic behind his back. Jigmi said, “If you look at the various organizations that I’ve served in the past, I never had courtiers around me. I’ve always endeavoured to realize the potential of people who worked with me. And I’ve never been afraid to give them a piece of my mind when they failed to perform. I think, because of that, I am seen as being rather harsh.”

THE MAN BEHIND THE MASTER
Jigmi has grey hair, that is thinning in front, black piercing small eyes, a flared nose, a mobile, expressive face, and a brown complexion, that quickly turns red when he is moved to laughter, or anger – which is swift. “It’s like pouring kerosene on fire,” an observer said. It is said that he can’t stand laziness and unpunctuality.

A young Bhutanese journalist once found himself at the receiving end of his famous temper, when he dropped in five minutes late for an interview. Rubbing his index finger on his desk, eyes bulging, forehead knotted, he bore into the reporter who stood ashen faced. “You think we have all the time in the world? We have work to do. If you can’t come on time why did you bother to make an appointment?”

But just as suddenly as the storm comes, it passes. There is another side to him. In 1999, when a passenger bus crashed down the infamous Wangduephodrang cliff killing 19 people on the spot, Jigmi, then prime minister, rushed to the scene and, upon seeing the dead bodies, broke down and cried “like a baby”. When Kuensel brought up the subject, in an interview in Tingtibi, Zhemgang, Jigmi went quiet and could not speak for a few uncomfortable minutes. His lips trembled and, for a moment, tears filled his eyes. “I broke down twice. The second time was at the cabinet minister’s meeting when I tried to put up my resignation, because I felt it was my moral responsibility.”

One is struck by how much Jigmi views the world through the lens of GNH. It is his way of thinking. And it is a subject he is most passionate about and at home with. Kuensel told him skeptics thought GNH was rhetoric and an elitist concept.

At the time, Jigmi was trudging towards a Zhemgang village, nearly a day’s walk, up a muddy trail and through a thick and roadless jungle. He was wearing a p-cap and walked like an old pro, picking his way past the sharp stones poking out of mud. He was using two imported trekking sticks so that he appeared like a skier heaving his way through snow. Now and then he would jump to avoid a pool.

Upon hearing the GNH criticism, he stopped in his track, swivelled, and hardened. “Does happiness not matter? Is wanting to care for people elitist? Is caring for the environment or one’s culture wrong?” The rumbling formality of his diction made it sound as if he were giving a speech in the middle of a forest. “Those who say these things are pseudo intellectuals, people who are intellectually lazy, who have not bothered to study or even understand it.” He then proceeded, heaving and puffing down a slippery trail, to argue and engage Kuensel for more than an hour on the finer points of GNH.

Jigmi is a reporter’s delight. Though he pauses for some time to gather his thoughts, when he speaks, it is in deliberate, print-ready prose. “GNH is about altruism; it’s about loyalty; it’s about spiritualism …” The reporter’s tape runs out - forty minutes have passed. As he fumbles to turn it over, Jigmi stops speaking and, as soon as the tape is up and going, he resumes. “… GNH is about economic growth.” He picks up exactly where he had left off. “If you’re able to find equilibrium between spiritual growth and material needs, you’ll find GNH.”

Jigmi believes in clean politics. He said people elsewhere are deliberately turned off because political discourse and practice are made sufficiently negative. He believes Bhutan can develop a unique political culture, one that is not corrupt. “I believe Bhutanese politicians can behave and conduct themselves in a way where people can view politics to be a noble profession just like that of a teacher or doctor.”

Jigmi is sitting inside Trashigang dzong, leaning back on a sofa, legs crossed. As he speaks, he waves his hand in a vague, regal gesture, like somebody absent-mindedly swatting away a fly. “The role of a politician is to serve the people.”

Source: Kuensel

Mountaineer comes to mountain Kingdom

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14 April, 2008 - Peter Hillary, as much a celebrated personality as his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, the first man to conquer Mount Everest, is in the country and Kuensel’s Samten Wangchuk caught up with him as he shared excerpts from a wealth of stories he had to tell from a lifetime of high adventure. He climbed the world’s highest peak twice.

Q1. What brings you here?

I’ve come to the Himalayas many times and Bhutan is a place I’ve always wanted to visit. I’ve gone on many expeditions in Sikkim, Nepal, the Indian Himalayas, Kashmir, Ladhak, Northern Pakistan and finally I’m here at the eastern end of the Himalayas. It just so happened that National Geographic, the group that I’m travelling with, wanted me to accompany this group to Bhutan. My father Edmund Hillary recently died in January this year. I think it’s rather fitting that I come back to the Himalayas.

Q2. How’s life living on the edge?

Sometimes it’s been more difficult than others, there have been some accidents and there have been successful summits and it’s been a lot of fun. But I think the reasons people do it, particularly when you’re thinking of a place like the Himalayas, and I know that mountaineering is not allowed here, but it’s the adventure of going to different place, somewhere you’ve never been to, …. in a way, it reminds me of the opportunity to make of your life what you will. In many ways, a mountaineering expedition is an opportunity to really realise our potential in a very intensive way.

Q3 In Bhutan, we consider the mountains sacred and as such don’t allow them to be climbed. What do you think of that?

As a mountaineer, it’s a shame, but I understand that you have your reasons. Most mountaineers, in fact, are incredibly respectful of mountains. If you go to mountain without respect, it may well take your life. It may be a different type of respect, nonetheless, I think mountaineers have huge respect for mountains.

Q4 Where do you think the line should be drawn between a sense of adventure in conquering nature and a sense of reverence in preserving it?

This is one of the balancing acts that occurs in every country in all sorts of different ways. In your country, if you feel that these mountains are sacred and that maybe mountaineers have interfered with local beliefs, you’ve to balance things. Perhaps, on the other hand it might be possible to identify some mountains where mountaineers could go climbing. That’s certainly been the case in a lot of other countries. I think largely it’s being a great benefit to the communities, because mountaineering is a more expensive part of adventure tourism.

Q5 You’ve scaled the highest peak, survived the most notorious, K2, traversed the lengths of many Himalayan ranges, what next?

I’m getting older, I’m 52, but I love going to the mountains. It’s one of the things I’ve been enjoying, waking up in the morning and looking up at a patch of snow on the ridge lines above these beautiful valleys and that’s always a thrill to me. In June, this year, I’ll go to Alaska to climb mount McKinley, which is the highest mountain in the whole of North America. That will complete my seven summits. The seven summits are the highest mountains on each continent of Antartica, North and South America, Africa, Europe and Asia.

Q6 Given the nature of your sport, highly risky, which I assume also heightens your passion and thrill for such adventures, don’t you fear the unseen?

I do fear it, absolutely. But you’ve got to look at everything in terms of the pros and cons of any undertaking. You go to a mountain, you know it’s a dangerous terrain, you have some skills, you think you can keep yourself safe, but there are many very positive thing such as intense camaraderie, going to a beautiful place, seeing sights that no one else ever sees unless you’re on a mountain.

Q7 You’ve appeared on numerous TV shows, received media adulations, you’ve also been known as a highly motivational speaker and co-authored many books, what is it that you try to convey through them?

When I speak in a commercial or corporate sense, obviously I’m not an expert in terms of new manufacturing, leadership or management technique, but what I can bring are anecdotal stories, from up on the mountain top, where really all the same things happen, you need to see leadership, good team work, conflict, resolution between people arguing and you say, well, we’ve got to solve this and keep going, we have a goal which is not an easy one. My books are simply stories of expeditions, which from reading you could derive inspiration or teamwork and leadership, conflict situations but that wasn’t the aim of telling the story.

Q8 What’s your biggest achievements in life or are you still waiting to achieve one?

Obviously, mountaineering has been incredibly an important part, because it was something the Hillary family loved doing, but for both of us, my father and I, as we got older, it has been going back to Nepal and, at the request of the local villagers, building small humble schools, small hospitals and clinics and giving something back to people who helped us on our expeditions. That’s probably been the most important thing, trying to help other people fulfill some of their goals.  

Q9 Mount Everest is now a giant garbage-heap, if that’s not putting it too strongly, how did your late and great father, Sir Edmund, feel about the Pandora’s box he opened with his conquest of the peak?

In a way, he thought, when he and Tenzing reached the summit, that it was going to be the end of all their struggle to be the first to climb the summit and why would anyone else go there. But lots of people wanted to climb the highest mountain on the planet after them. In terms of pollution on the mountains, a lot of it has been exaggerated. The Mount Everest base camp, when it was fairly polluted, it was only two or three hectares of rubbish on the glacier, which is not good but it’s also not difficult to clean it up. 50 people could clean it up in a couple of days. I would definitely want to come to Bhutan again. The Snowman trek is on my list.

Source: Kuensel

The 10th Plan will be GNH-oriented

4 April 2008

Thimphu: A three-day symposium organised by the Gross National Happiness Commission (GNH) began this week with the objective of aligning the 10th Plan projects with the Druk Phuensum Tshogpa (DPT) manifesto and using GNH has the guiding factor.

“Political promises are beyond the scope of the 10th Five-year Plan budget. Some of them may not be feasible, while others may not be even desirable,” said Karma Tshiteem, Secretary of the GNH Commission, at the opening of the National Planning Symposium in Thimphu, yesterday.

Rinzin Dorji, Chief Planning Officer of GNH Commission, told Observer that it was a challenge. “While 90 percent of the party’s manifestoes are in line with the Tenth Plan, rest of the manifestoes come as a challenge to us,” he said. “But we are prepared to face the challenge.”

Earlier on during the campaigns, the political parties had said that the cost of promises that could not be met from the plan budget would be mobilised from outside. But observers had said that the political promises were too numerous and far-fetched to be realised with external funds.

At the symposium, which is markedly different from the previous planning meetings organised by the erstwhile Planning Commission, Karma Tshiteem outlined the priorities of the 10th Plan as a GNH-oriented and poverty-reduction-targeted plan in a new democratic setup. “Today, we have the luxury of choosing which direction to go in, and GNH shows the direction,” he said.

The GNH Commission Secretary pointed out some internal challenges such as poverty, narrow industrial base, growing unemployment, sluggish private sector, growing cost of social service delivery, and political changes.

He stressed on building the economy through enterprise, creativity, and innovation. “For a country like Bhutan, standing on our own feet is critical,” he said. “We cannot follow the traditional method of economic development – our focus must be on the people.”

Rinzin Dorji said the preparation and implementation of the 10th Plan was going to be different from the previous plans. He added that the symposium was aimed at inviting feedback on the various planning documents and processes such as the result-based management, annual grants, tied grants, functional and financial responsibilities of the government, and the planning and monitoring system that GNH commission had developed during the process of the preparation of the Tenth Plan.

Besides, the symposium will sensitise and brief the planners on the strategic framework of the 10th Plan as well as seek feedback on the best practices and on the lessons learnt from the Ninth Plan. The participants will discuss a strategic roadmap for the development at the local as well as the national level.

The highlights of some 14 papers being presented at the symposium include the strategic framework for the 10th Plan, roles and responsibilities of local governments and gewog administrative officers, local development plans, and Targeted Poverty Intervention, among others.

The Planning Officer of Zhemgang Dzongkhag, Bolanath Bhattarai, said the symposium would help solve coordination problems among agencies, dzongkhags, ministries, and gewogs besides helping the planners implement the 10th Plan effectively.

Sarpang Dzongkhag Planning Officer, Pema Tenzin, said the symposium gave a clear roadmap for the result-based 10th Plan. He added that while the previous plans were sector-based, the 10th Plan was cross-sectoral and broad-based. “The roadmap is drawn; we will move on,” he said.

Planning Officer of Mongar Dzongkhag, Lekey Wangdi, said, in the new democratic setup, capacity of local governments was crucial. “This symposium has come at the right time to enhance the capacity of local governments and to streamline the roles and responsibilities of gewog administration.

The National Planning Symposium is being attended by some 170 planning officers from the ministries, dzongkhags and agencies, and gewog administrative officers from across the country. The last symposium of this kind was organised by the erstwhile Planning Commission nine years ago.

Source: Bhutan Observer

The urban influence on voters

Thimphu: What exactly transpired in the two days leading up to the election? Did civil servants and educated urbanites actually influence rural voters as maintained by PDP supporters?

The PDP president, Sangay Ngedup, has said that they were confident of people’s support until 21 March. There was a mood swing in the intervening two days as buses, trucks and cars bearing urban voters hit towns and villages.

If the postal ballot is any indication, the educated vote was largely in favour of the DPT. Of 17,119 postal ballots cast, only 3,799 voted for the PDP while 13,320 voted for the DPT. These included civil servants, students, armed forces, diplomats, their spouses and dependants, officials on election duty, hoteliers, media persons and tour operators.

There are more than 18,000 civil servants, about 9,000 corporate employees and more than 30,000 private employees. This translates into more than 39,000 people actually going to their constituencies to vote. On 22, 23 and 24 March, the Thimphu-Paro highway was the busiest with 1,237 vehicles while on other days there are less than 100 vehicles. The Thimphu-Phuenstholing highway saw 477 vehicles and the Thimphu-Haa highway 181.

The frequency of B-Mobile calls in the three days before the election also shot up by 30 percent. Do all these factors indicate that rural voters were influenced?

The PDP Secretary, Lam Kezang, said that he had received many calls and faxes from party supporters alleging that urban dwellers had influenced rural voters. “The reports, however, are not concrete,” he said.

PDP’s Kaka Tshering from Paro said that the general feeling among the party was that urban dweller had influenced the voters. “Some miraculous thing has happened but we don’t know who is behind it,” he said.

Jigme Cholen from Trshignag said that every village in his constituency had assured him of their support but in touch with people who weren’t living in the villages and I think those people must have voted for the other party,” he said.

Chhungdu Tshering from Samtse said they gave more attention to the rural voters thinking that most of the educated lot will avail the postal ballot facility. In the end when the educated lot turned up to vote, it was too late as the campaigning period was over.
Urban dwellers started influencing the villagers who believed them. “I am still getting reports on this,” he said.

The DPT Secretary, Thinley Gyamtsho, believes the voters had made their decision ahead of the arrival of the urban dwellers. “The voters might have been swayed in small ways but not to a large extent. We already had strong network of supporters,” he said.

Influence or not, the Chief Election Commissioner, Dasho Kunzang Wangdi, said that as long as the law was not violated and people are not forced to go against their will, everyone can enjoy their democratic and fundamental rights. Urban dwellers calling up their families in the villages and telling them to vote for a political party cannot be considered illegal as long as people are not coerced to do so.